Care library

Keep it alive, then watch it take off

Everything we know about settling an imported aroid — written by the people who cut and packed it.

LightBright, indirect. No direct midday sun.
WaterWhen the top 2–3 cm is dry. Never on a schedule.
Humidity60 %+ for most. 70 %+ for velvet Anthurium.
MixChunky and airy — bark, perlite, charcoal.

Unboxing a bare-root import

  1. Open it the day it lands. Photograph everything before unwrapping — that is your evidence if anything is wrong.
  2. Rehydrate. Soak roots in clean, room-temperature water for 20–30 minutes. Long-haul flight = dehydration, not death.
  3. Trim only what is clearly dead. Mushy or hollow roots come off with a sterile blade. Firm roots stay, even if they look tired.
  4. Pot into sphagnum or a chunky airy mix. Bare-root imports establish faster in moss than in heavy soil.
  5. High humidity, low light, no fertiliser. A clear bin or bag for 2–4 weeks. Feeding a rootless plant burns what roots remain.
  6. Expect one or two leaves to yellow. That is the plant reallocating energy. New growth is your all-clear.

By genus

Hoya

The forgiving one. Wax-leaved, drought-tolerant, and happiest slightly pot-bound. Let it dry out properly between waterings — Hoya rot faster from kindness than from neglect. Flowers only on mature growth, so never cut the old peduncles: they rebloom from the same spur year after year.

Shop Hoya (595) →

Anthurium

The demanding one, and worth it. Velvet-leaved species (clarinervium, crystallinum, magnificum) want 70%+ humidity and will spot if water sits on the leaf. Grow in pure chunky mix or sphagnum, never dense soil. Brown crisping at the margin is almost always humidity, not thirst.

Shop Anthurium (407) →

Philodendron

The fast grower. Give it something to climb — a moss pole doubles leaf size within two or three leaves, because the plant reads the support as a tree. Variegated forms need brighter light than green forms to hold their pattern, but never direct sun on white sections; they burn where there is no chlorophyll.

Shop Philodendron (179) →

Monstera & Rhaphidophora

Fenestration is a maturity signal, not a defect you can fix. Young leaves come solid; holes arrive with age, light and a climbing surface. Variegated Monstera need bright indirect light to stay stable — too dark and they revert to green, too bright and the white burns.

Shop Monstera & Rhaphidophora (90) →

Aglaonema

The tolerant one. Handles lower light than anything else we sell, which makes it the best first rare plant. Pink and red cultivars hold colour better in brighter light. Sensitive to cold — never below 15°C, and keep it away from winter windows and air conditioning.

Shop Aglaonema (86) →

Scindapsus

Silver-splashed and nearly unkillable once established. Let the top half of the mix dry before watering. The silver is a surface feature, so avoid wiping leaves hard — you can rub it off. Trails or climbs; climbing gives bigger leaves.

Shop Scindapsus (108) →

Syngonium

Grows quickly and changes shape as it matures — arrowhead juvenile leaves become lobed with age. Variegated and albo forms burn easily; bright shade is ideal. Prune to keep it bushy, or let it vine and the leaves enlarge.

Shop Syngonium (41) →

Alocasia

The dramatic one. Goes dormant when unhappy or cold — that is not death, and the corm will push new growth once conditions improve. Wants warmth, humidity and a very airy mix. Prone to spider mites in dry air, so check leaf undersides weekly.

Shop Rare & Unusual (188) →

General guidance for indoor growing in temperate conditions. Conditions vary — when in doubt, message us about your specific plant.

Phytosanitary certifiedGovernment inspected before every export
The exact plant picturedWhat you see in the photo is what ships
Worldwide shippingFlown direct from Indonesia to your door
Cut to orderCut the week you order, not months before